K12 is a high
peak in the
Saltoro Mountains, a subrange of the
Karakoram range. It lies near the disputed border between the
Northern Areas of
Pakistan and the
Kashmir region of
India. Its name comes from its designation given during the original survey of the Karakoram range.K12 lies to the southwest of the
Siachen Glacier; the K12 glacier heads on its northeast slopes and feeds the Siachen. The western slopes of K12 drain to the Bilafond Glacier system, and thence to the Dansam River, and eventually the
Indus River.K12 has seen little climbing activity, partly because of the unsettled political situation and the continued military presence in the area. It was first attempted in 1960, after a reconnaissance visit by famed explorer
Eric Shipton in 1957. After a further unsuccessful attempt by a Japanese party in 1971, another Japanese expedition put two climbers, Shinichi Takagi and Tsutomu Ito, on the summit. Unfortunately they fell and died on the descent, and their bodies were not recovered. Another Japanese expedition returned in 1975 and made the second ascent. In 1984 an Indian Army expedition climbed the peak again. No subsequent climbs or attempts are recorded in the
Himalayan Index.
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